Tuesday, July 25, 2017

Bergère Hats Are Back!

         If I could, I would wear 18th century garb everyday. But as a working woman in the year 2017 I feed this urge by incorporating small bits of Georgian glam into my look. Huge hair with a pouf just so? Historically accurate beauty products? Georgian jewelry?  Check, check, check. So imagine my surprise when I opened the latest Vogue and discovered that bergère hats are back!

         Quick crash course: A bergère hat (Wikipedia tells me this is French for shepherdess) is a flat-brimmed straw hat with a shallow crown. Often trimmed with ribbon or flowers it sits just so on the head, often at a jaunty angle.
The Swing
It can be seen in countless 18th century paintings, most famously The Swing by Fragonard. Other than looking cute as heck it also helped keep the sun off women seeking creamy pale skin.
         The majesty of a well done bergère isn’t lost on many a historical costumer. One need look no further than Demonde Couture’s Kendra or the spectacular Lauren THE American Duchess. Nor has the bergère been ignored by Hollywood- Milena Canonero famously reused one from the 1975 film Barry Lyndon for Sofia Coppola’s 2006 gem Marie Antoinette.
Yaaaas Queen!
       It was 18th century It Girls who set the trends then, so unsurprisingly when Kendall Jenner rocked a bergère in Cannes Vogue noticed. I hadn’t even seen the pictures from The Met Gala where Viceland host Hailey Gates ignored the “look” of the night and turned it up to 11! I’m not really sure who the designer Jacquemus is. A quick Google search reveals a broken website- but if he’s the next big thing and he’s promoting 18th century glam, then who am I to judge?
          Want a bergère of your very own? You can find one at Burnley & Trowbridge or a Fashionable Frolick

Saturday, June 24, 2017

Film Review: Sofia Coppola's "The Beguiled"

Hi Everyone! “Why”, you may be asking yourself “is All American Antoinette writing a blog entry after 6 months of absence? And also, why is it about costumes from the Victorian period / American Civil war?”

No good answer about the blog- I mean if someone isn’t paying you and other stuff comes up then a blog is just a blog. But I’m sorry if that helps?
As for the time shift- I feel like this is a place where all historical costuming is welcome (even if I tend to prefer other time periods). Plus, Sofia Coppola is one of the main reasons I fell in love with HA costuming. From “The Virgin Suicides” 1970’s dreamy maxi dresses to the 2006 over the top Rococo fantasy that is “Marie Antoinette”. How could I resist her latest historical romp “The Beguiled”?

My boyfriend and I were able to make it to a preview screening, which was exciting enough- until I realized there were costumes from the film in the theatre! My first assumption was these would be from costume master Milena Canonero. I couldn’t stop shrieking. Took me a hot minute to realize Stacey Battat was the costume designer. But after pouring over the costumes I was pleasantly surprised to see many historically accurate elements: buttons instead of zippers, hand finish on the collars, and no back lacing (thank God). Battat was trying to go for clothing “that was old flowy and mossy with an airiness to the clothes”.

Back to my earlier admission that I’m not a fan of Civil War outfits. The necklines, sleeves, and silhouettes just don’t seem flattering no matter who’s wearing it. But I still appreciate and understand what goes into making a HA 1863 dress.
So did Battat’s vision work? 
Well for most modern audiences Yes. But for those of us who twitch when presented with woman from 1863 with their hair down, or bite our tongue when a corset is probably more 1904 than 1863, or almost throw popcorn at the screen when there is not a chemise to be seen (and sooooo many pantaloons)- it’s a bit heart breaking. Honestly most of the costumes were beautiful and spot on except for (spoiler alert) Kirsten Dunst wearing a dress that looked like something out of a Macy’s prom catalog. But enough gabbing- here are some pictures of the dresses:

Is the collar correct? Not sure...

Look at those hand rolled hems and tiny stitching! Plus Buttons!
Those sleeves and that lovely fabric!

Kirsten rocking that baby blue
Right Side
Left side- not sure about that lace or the waistband detail?
Forgiving the theatre for not putting proper undergarments on a mannequin 

Wednesday, December 7, 2016

Making A Shift

If you’ve found All American Antoinette there is a great chance you know what a shift (or chemise) is. But just in case, it’s a long shirt worn as the innermost layer of clothing, the style of which changed very little from the 16th till early 20th century.  
My chemise was my first try at making a garment, let alone HA and completely hand stitched. And while I love it… I can’t say it’s perfect. For starters it came from Simplicity sewing pattern 3635.
Go ahead and snicker... I'll wait
Nope, never drafted a pattern in my life so this was where I began. The final shift is a marriage based on A and C
… and maybe just a bit from Marie Antoinette (2006)
…which I justified because it’s 100% hand sewn, made with historically correct fabric and notions, and also it’s under all my clothes to be seen by no one. That and I’m short, so very short. So short, that when I cut the fabric for the side panels, the shift became less structured and seemed to swallow me.
Living in a tiny apartment my kitchen table serves as my sewing room

This is how you're supposed to do it right? Right?

Moments away from discovering what a sleevil is...

It takes a village to sew a seam
 Ultimately my pattern came out like this:
Please ignore the stays- that's a story for another time
Just in case you’re a purest who can’t be bothered altering patterns without historical precedent, (or using ::gasp:: Simplicity) there are countless blog posts that tell you how to construct a shift (great examples can be found here and here ).
What was your experience like with your first shift? Did you hand sew, buy, use machine? Tell us in the comments below!

Monday, December 5, 2016

Exhibition Review: “An Agreeable Tyrant”: Fashion after the Revolution

         For their latest exhibition Dar wanted to “consider how Americans fashioned a new identity through costume” after the revolution. Clothing from 1780-1825 was displayed in various rooms throughout the museum.
My first disappointment was the difficulty determining where in the museum the clothes were displayed. One main hall would have been easier than the many dead ends (and private offices?) I stumbled into. My second let down was the pittance of earlier clothing. It’s partially my fault- I heard “revolution” and assumed I’d be seeing clothing from the late 18th century, not mainly the early 1800s.
Regardless- let’s take a look at the clothing shall we?
These were all the 18th century gowns I could find

Reader correction! This fichu is noBurnley & Trowbridge but rather an original mull muslin embroidered shawl used as a kerchief

My two favorite dresses from the era- also those jewels are Dames A La Mode

            My Washington DC trip did have some lovely surprises. Who knew the Air and Space museum featured stomacher jewelry depicting the early days of balloon travel? 
And the National Gallery of Art had some paintings of both Madame du Barry and Madame de Pompadour!
Madame 'One thing about girls from the gutter- they know their diamonds' du Barry

Madame de Pompadour- love the hair

Do you know of 18th century treasures in the D.C. museums? Comment below!

Thursday, December 1, 2016

The Moment When.....

The moment when you're sitting in the audience at Hamilton and your HA costuming senses tingle... OMG the Schuyler sisters costumes are based on the painting of the three eldest daughters of George II!!!

Wednesday, November 30, 2016

Wise Advice: Proper Foundation Undergarments

            When the itch to start making historical costumes took hold I had no idea where to begin. I was down the rabbit hole in terms of following costume bloggers, lurking in Facebook groups for 18th century and reading every book I could order off of Amazon, but not quite sure how to make the final leap.
            Many established costumers seemed to have a strong understanding of patterning and sewing- usually learned from a mom or peers in the reenactment community. I, meanwhile, came from a family that excelled at shopping not sewing. Nor did I have a local group who shared my interests and from whom I could learn what it took to put a basic kit together.
Vintage counts as costume, right?
            So I did what any good millennial would do and turned to the Internet. I cannot recall with 100% certainty which group I posted to (probably ‘18th Century Sewing’ on Facebook) but I know I asked something along the lines of “what is the easiest 18th century dress to make?” In hindsight my wording alone makes me cringe, but at the time I didn’t even realize a Mantua, stomacher and petticoat weren’t one big dress. A group member kindly suggested perhaps I should start with Regency era as these gowns are considered a much simpler undertaking. However, and this she couldn’t emphasize strongly enough, no historically accurate costume would ever look correct without the right undergarments. I pooh-poohed this comment not realizing just how true it was.
Breathtaking! (CC attendee)
           A few months after I posted online I signed up for the super bowl of costuming: Costume College (or CC as it is affectionately referred too). I had a vast collection of vintage clothes, which I figured would give me an air of legitimacy even though I didn’t have any handmade costumes to show off.
CC is it’s own blog post; hell it’s probably a good half a dozen blog posts, so I won’t get into a full description right now. But essentially the workmanship and beauty of the pieces people craft are astonishing.
I'd wear this fabulous renaissance bee everyday
 (CC attendee)
There was an ice cream social the first night and that was where I saw it: an impeccably crafted Victorian gown (not shown here). No expense had been spared with fabric and detail. But for all the time and love that the creator had put into it, the gown fit her body like a sack.
I narrowed my eyes and thought hard about what was so off-putting. And then I realized it- this woman wasn’t wearing the proper undergarments for the outfit. No bustle, not corset, probably not even a shift- and the end result was a horribly fitting garment. 
At that moment I fully understood the importance of foundation garments. I realized my dream kit wasn’t just one simple dress but a full arsenal of garments. How to begin then? There was no getting around it, from the bottom up.
             Next time on AAA- making a shift. 

Friday, November 25, 2016

Exhibition Review of 'Masterworks: Unpacking Fashion'

Exhibitions from the Costume Institute at The Metropolitan Museum of Art can be a mixed bag. They are often built around contemporary fashion with a “vintage piece” thrown in here and there for good measure. So when I heard The Institute’s fall 2016 show featured 18th century clothing I had to check it out.

Have you ever stumbled across something that makes you shriek a few octaves too high- like a little kid on Christmas morning? 
Well that was me wandering through this small, but beautiful exhibition that features significant acquisitions from the past 10 years. It was refreshing to see genuine rococo mixed with newer outfits that share the same influence.

Bottom line- if you’re in New York City this fall check it OUT. And bring a drool rag, your camera, and try not to scare security with loud sighs of delight. I could go on, but if you’re anything like me you just want to cut to the pictures: 

My boyfriend agreed he would look badass in this. Menswear, French, 1792

Lady's ensemble inspired by a gentleman's 18th century waistcoat. Raf Simons, Dior, Autumn/ Winter 2014
Ivory silk robe a l'anglaise worn as a wedding gown in 1747 and then altered in 1770 
That stomacher OMG

Robe a française, French, I'm guessing late 1770's?

That detail!
I don't even normally like this "cape" effect but here, wow 
French, 1780's redingote / polonaise

Collar detail

Back detail- check out those buttons for the polonaise
The End ;)
1770's pannier (this was actually made out of metal, not cane)